Friday, April 10, 2026 9°48'S 137°32'W

Pacific Ocean, 4089NM WSW of Catalinia

Boat number 17, sailboat number 3, was spotted behind us in the darkness. An Oyster Rally boat Alpenglow sailed past us at double speed. We had a small conversation over VHF and soon they had disappeared into the darkness.

The morning didn’t turn bright, it turned grey. Squalls and lulls woven to each other like a gray wool blanket. The winds were varied as if they already could sense the land, and ebb and flow up and down simulating the tall volcanic slopes of the Marquesas. Eventually one of the squalls came with gusts over 30kn, so out in to the rain we went to put in a 2nd reef. After a while as the wind kept dropping we put back the 1st reef. This passage was going to test us till the very end.

At 3pm we got to the magical 2 digit numbers on the plotter! If we can keep up average speed of 4kn, we shall be dropping anchor in Hiva Oa exactly 6 weeks after starting!

• Distance today: 100NM
• Lunch: lentil coconut soup
• Engine hours: 0

Thursday, April 9, 2026 9°37'S 135°54'W

Pacific Ocean, 3989NM WSW of Catalinia

As our target draws nearer, we need to start paying a bit more attention to navigation. It is no longer enough to follow a roughly westerly course whichever way the wind blows. And so, we gybed right after dinner to gain a bit more northing.

The night was a bit lighter than forecasted, but with the easterly wind. Sunrise brought more wind, and from the southeast, and so we gybed again. Now the bow is pointing straight to target.

• Distance today: 100NM
• Lunch: pea soup
• Engine hours: 0

Wednesday, April 8, 2026 9°51'S 134°20'W

Pacific Ocean, 3889NM WSW of Catalinia

Slightly after watch change, it was time to roll in the genoa and go wing on wing with the staysail. The night came with variable windspeeds littered with occasional squalls and rain. As the sun rose, the skies cleared but the wind stayed. We were moving fast, with the whole barnacle farm. Even the windvane servo rudder is rocking its first few small individuals. The boat starts showing the length of the passage. The sun cover strip of our genoa needs some re-stiching, we moved the windvane steering line by 20cm to move the slightly chafed bit away from the blocks, and our staysail had a little hole in the bottom that we fixed with some sail tape. The pole-out sheet we use with both sails got turned around as there was some significant chafe developing in it where it goes through the eye of the pole. The genoa sheets look like they want to be turned around so that the good end of the line replaces the parts where wear and tear are starting to take their toll. And the sides of the boat - brown with algae growth. Lille Ø will need some TLC after this one.

• Distance today: 108NM
• Lunch: chanterelle risotto
• Engine hours: 0

Tuesday, April 7, 2026 9°40'S 132°33'W

Pacific Ocean, 3781NM WSW of Catalinia

The light winds prevailed through the night. Light enough that we actually let the tillerpilot steer for some time, as there wasn’t enough for the windvane.

In the early hours we watched a slow-motion chase scene, as the French sailboat La Bulle approached behind the horizon, and pulled ahead in about 7h from first contact. Boats are getting closer as we all head for the same islands. This was our 16th vessel sighting, and the second sailboat.

Just before dinnertime we gybed again, as now the winds should again carry a southerly component. Under 400NM to go!

• Distance today: 91NM
• Lunch: navy bean soup
• Engine hours: 0

Monday, April 6, 2026 10°10'S 131°8'W

Pacific Ocean, 3690NM WSW of Catalinia

With the evening came a bit more wind, but only for the dark hours without moonlight. The boat bobs gently on, accompanied by periodic bangs from the sails. Not the most pleasant sailing wise. The Pacific isn’t pacified. The swell is constant, large and confused. At all times there is at least two swell directions and when they meet at your position, the boat lurches into a random direction. The barnacles are plentiful and their growing size brings the slow speeds even slower.

But there is much to celebrate! On this date two years ago we set sail from Berlin towards the cool waters and climate of Scotland. And look at us now! Nearly half way around the world in the tropical heat of the Pacific!

At dawn we gybed as the wind persistently was easterly. On other days we have meandered with the wind shifts, but that option wasn’t available today. What a weird sight to see the sails this way around! 

We also moved the ship’s time to UTC-9. Only another half hour shift remaining before we are at Marquesas timezone.

• Distance today: 92NM
• Lunch: spaghetti aglio e olio
• Engine hours: 0

Sunday, April 5, 2026 10°0'S 129°39'W

Pacific Ocean, 3598NM WSW of Catalinia

At night the boat was visited by a pod of whales. Large black shapes rose out of the dark sea all around the boat. They stayed for a few minutes, and then continued on their way.

Sailing-wise today has been a rehash of yesterday. Winds are light, just barely enough to keep the three-sail setup filled.

• Distance today: 100NM
• Lunch: paneer coconut curry
• Engine hours: 0

Saturday, April 4, 2026 9°46'S 127°59'W

Pacific Ocean, 3498NM WSW of Catalinia

We sailed into the night with the Parasailor up. A bold move for sure. With the moon and the motor light on, the sail is fully illuminated and easy to control. Just after 23 the wind started picking up. At 23:20 a gust of 17kn was enough to prompt a early wakeup call for the off-watch, and we packed the Parasailor up and went back to wing on wing.

Since the sail change the day has been a steady progress towards our destination and the rest of the cinnamon rolls have been eaten as watch snacks. Life at sea is sweet at the moment!

Cheers Petra and Uli!

• Distance today: 98NM
• Lunch: cashew-tomato pasta
• Engine hours: 0

Friday, April 3, 2026 9°47'S 126°22'W

Pacific Ocean, 3400NM WSW of Catalinia

The wind kept dropping throughout the night. At midnight we packed away the mainsail to keep it from slatting. And then at sunrise the Parasailor came up.

As always, this big sail with its built-in wing stabilises the boat, as well as making it possible to sail in lighter winds than otherwise possible. Outside of the doldrums this passage has been surprisingly windy, meaning that until now it hasn’t made sense to deploy the Parasailor.

While today’s mileage has been low, that additional stability made for better sleep, as well as more elaborate cooking. We enjoyed some stovetop pizza followed up by cinnamon rolls.

• Distance today: 79NM
• Lunch: pizza
• Engine hours: 0

Thursday, April 2, 2026 9°45'S 125°4'W

Pacific Ocean, 3321NM WSW of Catalinia

In the morning we saw a sail in the horizon. Mastegot was the 15th vessel we’ve seen on this passage, but the first sailboat. We had a brief VHF conversation, and learned that our AIS wasn’t transmitting.

Some investigation later, it turned out the problem was that the transceiver didn’t have a GPS fix. Moving the antenna outside helped, but it is curious for this problem to occur now, as the particular antenna has worked fine in its original location since 2021.

At noon wind dropped substantially, so we shook the reef and rolled out the genoa. Now we’re back to the three-sail setup.

Right as we were finishing dinner, a large pod of dolphins arrived to play in our bow wave.

• Distance today: 107NM
• Lunch: pea soup
• Engine hours: 0

Wednesday, April 1, 2026 9°21'S 123°20'W

Pacific Ocean, 3214NM WSW of Catalinia

At sunset a gust came through incentivising us to go to second reef. After that was set, we also went back to wing on wing. The southerly component in the wind was gone. The night was boisterous with wind gusting up to thirty. The second reef had indeed earned its setting. We also made good miles and at dawn we saw it. 999NM to destination. Mere 3 digits! Numbers so small that we had started to doubt their existence.

As the day grew older, we were at the edge of grey and blue skies. We took the staysail to starboard side and sailed slightly more to the south to secure our spot in the sun.

• Distance today: 114NM
• Lunch: chana masala
• Engine hours: 0