Interestingly doing a print at 230 from the start, no manually set M104 S230 instruction at a certain layer number, Just 230 degrees for the entire small print. They worked perfectly other than the fact that the PLA was too hot and all dribbly (as expected)

I will try to use the usual 210 degrees for the fiirst section of the temperature tower and then go to 225 for the second section (at layer 44) I will not use 230 at all because I know it is too hot for this PLA

I will see if a heater error is triggered there

Delay turning the fans on until layer 10 or so, or put the starting print temperature at 230c.

I decided to print a temperature tower that I have the STL for. I am using CuraLE 4.13.17 and added scripts to manually set the temperature at several layers starting on layer 4.

It prints starting at 230 degrees on layer 4 and then every 40 layers it drops by 5 degrees eventually printing at 190.

Well,I got an error I have never seen before. The printed shut down and sounded a buzzer. It gave an error Heating Failed E1. I tried again and got the same error. As I watched the temperature on the readout as it tried to transition for the 210 used on the thin 3 layer base to the 230 starting at layer 4. The temperature climbed but then seemed to stall at about 215. After a little while the Firmware stopped the print with the error listed above.

I checked the resistance of the thermistor and the heater and they are within spec.

I did a new print with the extruder temp set to 230 for everything. It reached and maintained 230 with no problem The print was fine except it was clearly too hot at 230.

Any advice for what is going on? The scripts function is listed as experimental in Cura, but I used it before about a year ago the exact same way without any errors.

all thoughts are appreciated!

-Tony

Thanks!

Wrathernaut:

How much heat? The firmware won’t let the extruder move until its something like 170c at a minimum. 200c is a good target before attempting movement.

Does the extruder stepper motor turn with a consistent resistance if you turn it by hand with disconnected from the board? if it’s been fried, it will usually feel harder to turn somewhere in the rotation. If a dead motor fried the board, or the other way around, you could have ruined the new board as well.

Use a known good motor (X axis motor can be connected to the extruder motor wires fairly easily) to see if it moves when you try to move the extruder after temp is up. I wouldn’t recommend doing the extruder to the X axis initially, in case the motor is killing stepper drivers. Motors are much cheaper to replace in case the extruder stepper driver kills the motor.

^ if we’re just repeating ourselves here, this isn’t going to get very far.

Does the extruder stepper motor turn with a consistent resistance if you turn it by hand with disconnected from the board? if it’s been fried, it will usually feel harder to turn somewhere in the rotation. If a dead motor fried the board, or the other way around, you could have ruined the new board as well.

Use a known good motor (X axis motor can be connected to the extruder motor wires fairly easily) to see if it moves when you try to move the extruder after temp is up. I wouldn’t recommend doing the extruder to the X axis initially, in case the motor is killing stepper drivers. Motors are much cheaper to replace in case the extruder stepper driver kills the motor.

I assume you replaced the main control board already?

If so, what part isn’t working? Not heating? No temp signal? Motor not turning? Error when trying to heat?

Likewise with your message - videos of what is happening would be helpful.

Thanks

This can happen if the bearings in the X carriage are loose. Remove whatever tool head you have on there and look at the X carriage. At the bottom edge there are two screws. With the printer off, slide the carriage left or right along the X axis and feel how much drag there is. There should be some drag but it shouldn’t be really hard to move. I’ve adjusted hundreds of these things and what I always did was tighten one of the screws a bit, then move it side to side again. Keep doing this, tighten, then slide, until you feel the drag suddenly get a bit higher. Then back the screw out a little bit so the drag goes back down a little. You want to tighten the screw as much as you can, to squeeze the bearing, without causing much additional drag.

Then repeat the process with the other screw on the bottom edge of the carriage. There is a third screw at the top center that can squeeze the top bearing but usually it’s already fairly tight, but you could try the same process there as well.

When done adjusting the screws, check again that there isn’t significant additional drag. If there is, you can loosen each screw a little bit until it moves more freely.

After doing this you may even be able to manually try to twist the carriage left or right and feel that it seems more solid.

A PT1000 doesn’t need an amplifier but it can be significantly more accurate if you use one.

A PT100 does need an amplifier.

Either way you will probably need to compile custom firmware to set the proper sensor type.

That is a definite downside to the belted Z axis, and if it is weight that’s causing the issue, the fix is to lighten the load, since I believe the Z motors are already run with reduction gears. If you can’t make it lighter, increasing the Z motor current can help it hold better, but you need to monitor heat of the steppers and drivers to avoid damage.

I’m wondering if anyones knows why this is happening or if there is just a bolt that needs to be retightened?

Im using Lulzbot Taz workhorse.

Brand doesn’t matter.

E3D Mirrored Aero 2.85mm Filament Guide, Retail Packaged

LulzBot E3D Mirrored Aero 2.85mm Filament Guide KT-HD0024 B&H

E3D Mirrored Aero 2.85mm Filament Guide Retail Packaged High Precision

PETg got stuck in my printer, and nothing was helping it get loose so I disassembled it and pushed all of the parts out. but the filament seems to have fused with the filament guide path (on OHAI the part is called PP-FP0136.

I tried looking on download.lulzbot.com for it but I couldn’t find it. Is this part available for sale or replacement?

Thanks

If you got a load of free PPS-CF, it might be worth putting in the work, but it either requires a significant amount of knowledge to customize the printer to handle it, or a lot of money, which makes it more expensive than buying a new printer outright that was designed for that sort of application.

The Taz6 was designed around printing 2.85mm ABS very well, and it does. PPS-CF wasn’t really on anybody’s radar a decade ago when it was created. PLA was still a bit of a novelty at that time.

What toolhead?

You can equip a M175v2, Meteor 175 or Meteor 285 with a higher-rated thermistor and run to 500C with it. The hexagon hot end is not rated to do 500C.

But if you don’t already have a M175v2 or Meteor 175/285, an Elegoo Centauri Carbon 2 Combo – Family-Friendly Multicolor 3D Printer – ELEGOO US is only a little bit more than the cost of the M175v2 + toolhead adapter + the right thermistor, and does PPS-CF out of the box.

Did you get the PPS-CF for free? at around $150/kg I wouldn’t really be using it in a Taz 6 that hasn’t been modified for greater reliability.

Check that they’re mounted correctly, and test the switch operation with a multimeter or connected to the computer through terminal commands to check endstop status.

Not all in easily-edited CAD files, but at least STLs of all the parts.

Put the right firmware on it.

I’m not thinking of a reason it would fail out on the first washer, unless the Z homing button isn’t being pressed by the nozzle properly, so the contact with the washer is too soon, and it’s outside as the allowable physical range for Z leveling.

I’m running th Universal 2.0.9.013 off of Cura under the m175 toolhead as that is what this toolhead is made off of

Which washer is your firmware trying to touch first? Is it touching more than one before erroring out?

What firmware are you running now?

If you disable the steppers, it will lose the X/Y position. Use the M206 to adjust as in the older messaging - Lulzbot Taz 6 Biqu H2 issues - #5 by Wrathernaut

and In that seqence I see the error directly as it ouches the back left washer, it issues the command, goes to the back left tries to level touches the washer enough to make contact, and fails proceeding to a wipe sequene, and it does this fail loop 3-4 times before calling the “Leveling Failed Printer halted, please restart error message

So Gcode wise when I get home I’ll set the points tobe directly as you say (Center-Z button) and se the start of the leveling sequence to the front left washer instead of the back left

Also, for the positions could I just home the X and Y and then disable steppers and use the X and Y reading on the screen to manually adjust the posiiton in the code

1. Home X and Y.

2. Move to X-19 Y258 and home Z. This should position the nozzle directly over the center of the silver Z homing button. Is it over the center of the homing button? Does it do a second move in X/Y before moving the Z down?

3. Firmware Wipe sequence.

4. Raise Z.

5. Move to first washer at X-10 Y293. This should place the nozzle in the front-right quadrant of the back-left washer. (note: this was only left in because lulzbot still had it… but realistically it should be moving to the front-left washer).

6. Execute the G29 command for auto-leveling. This is the same command issued by the Homing option in the printer’s menu. It should move to the back-right quadrant of the front-left washer and touch down, before tapping the rest of the washers in sequence.

7. Raise nozzle.

8. Print commands begin.

Where in that sequence are you seeing the error? And is it possible to get a video of the attempted startup?

You’d be connecting to Extruder 0 - Fan 0. It’s a 24v connection, so use the appropriate fan.

it does not have seperate firmware

Universal assumes you’re using a toolhead with the nozzle in the same physical position as their current toolheads (SE 0.5 series, M175v2, etc). Taz 6 Single Extruder firmware positions it so the Taz 6’s original toolhead has the nozzle in a different spot, so older firmware for it doesn’t need compensation with that firmware, but the Universal Firmware was (for a while) adjusting the M206 setting when you selected the toolhead from the printer’s menu. I am not sure, but I think now they try and do it all with the startup GCODE… but they don’t try too hard, since it’s a legacy unsupported printer now.

I honestly don’t remember which firmware I was using when I built the Biqu H2 toolhead, and had tried to get the physical nozzle position to match, so it likely will need adjustment.

Sorry if I come off uneducated, I’m still working on my 3d printer knowledge, this coding part has been the real wall to my project being complete