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FusionCore

FusionCore is a DIY CoreXY configuration 3D printer with 3 seperate compartments each suited for the components inside it.
The printer is intended for enthusiests are want to build their own printer while also allowing easy customization in an all in one package.
Currently, only the CAD model of the printer is implemented. The printer has NOT been built yet.

image

Current Issues with the Design

  • Overall dimensions are too big for the 350mm x 350mm x 400mm print bed.
  • Screws and nuts are missing from the design.

Current Consideration with the Design

  • Change tab to handles
  • Put handle on the two ends of the middle faces
  • Increase Z enclosure hieght height and put filament spools on top. Side filament may reduce torque needed to pull/push the filament trough the extruder, increasing the overall quality and print speeds you can achieve.
  • Multimaterial feature?
  • Put the fans on the electronics box at the top and bottom vs in the center as I have them right now. Right now, I have what appears to be a pressurized box (one of your fans may be reversed), but nowhere for the air to go. If I blow cool air in the bottom, and suck it out the top, I get much better convective cooling, and I won't get a "hot pocket" at the top where you have no circulation. I started with my electronics on the side like yours, but I found the fans actually pulled a fair amount of heat from the chamber. Moving them to the bottom helped a lot with that.
  • duet3D boards running RRF?
  • If using endstops, may need to cut off drag pins.
  • Plexiglass is acrylic which is technically flammable. Polycarbonate is a bit more expensive, but is flame resistant, has better insulating value, and doesn't require special drill bits. The top, back, and bottom could be made with a single piece saving on cuts.
  • You will most likely need to increase the height above the Xbar to clear the bowden and wires for the extruder. I went 12"/30cm on my build, and wish i would have added 2-3"/5-8cm more as it still rubs a bit.250mm is what I would recommend for the minimum. Any less than that and it will curl the bowden down and risks the filament twisting and causing feed issues.
  • My chamber is very airtight. Air flowing through the electronics chamber cools the dividing wall and draws heat away. It will do 10-15 degrees Celsius over ambient with just the bed heater. I used a Stego enclosure heater and I easily hit 60C now. These heaters are designed for heating electrical enclosures and work perfectly for our use. Stego 04641.9-00 is the one I used. I got the 24v 250w version, but it was not enough to hit 60c, so I upgraded to the 400w and it hits 60c no problem. They have other models for various mounting locations and types. https://www.stego-group.com/index.php?id=1331&L=316 These can be had on ebay for a fraction of the new price and are often new, unused parts.
  • Belts. I wish I had gone with 9-12mm. The 6mm is my current limiting factor.
  • Din rails are AMAZING. They make organizing the electronics chamber super easy, and adding things in the future a breeze. A lot of things, like industrial grade power supplies come with din rail mounts built in and can be purchased off ebay for a steal.

Contributing

Feel free to contact me in regards to how I can improve this prject! For major changes, please open an issue first to discuss the problem!

License

GNU General Public License v3.0

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Fusion Core 3D Printer project

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