CIRCLE TRACK WAREHOUSE | PERFORMANCE RACING DISTRIBUTOR | AUTOMOTIVE PARTS

Better Performance with Proper Front End Alignment

Earl Peters — Fri, 04 Nov 2022 19:43:36 +0000

Tech Articles

Better Performance with Proper Front End Alignment

By Jim Kaekel, Jr.

Proper front end alignment provides more precise handling, increases safety, and reduces wear on tires and suspension components.

One of the most important aspects of suspension set-up, regardless of whether the car in question is a daily-driver, weekend warrior, or full-fledged race car, is ensuring that front end alignment is in spec. A proper alignment not only results in a vehicle that steers straight and offers safe, superior handling, but also helps maximize tire life. It’s also necessary any time front suspension repairs or upgrades are performed, such as replacing struts, springs, tie rod ends, idler arms, or installing adjustable control arms.

When front end alignment is being analyzed, there are three different specifications that must be checked and corrected as necessary: CAMBER, CASTER, and TOE. Camber and caster are effectively angles that are measured in degrees, while TOE is measured in inches. Specifications for each may be found in most popular auto repair manuals, or using Specialty Products Company’s new AlignGuide app for Apple and Android (for 1985-up vehicle models only).

CAMBER is the tilt of the tire viewed from the front. If the tops of the tires lean in toward the car, for example, a negative camber condition exists. On the other hand, if the tops of the tires tilt out from the center of the car, a positive camber condition is present. Optimizing camber can help achieve maximum speed and prolong tire life. If camber falls out of spec, irregular tire wear and compromised braking can result.

Camber

To understand CASTER, picture an imaginary line that runs from the upper to the lower ball joint with caster being the forward or backward tilting of the imaginary line. If, for example, the imaginary line tilts toward the back of the car at the upper ball joint, a positive caster condition would exist. On the other hand, if the imaginary line tilts toward the front of the car, it would cause negative caster. While most cars feature a small amount of positive caster to provide directional stability, too much positive caster can actually cause steering effort to become difficult. Negative caster, on the other hand, provides eased steering but can allow the car to wander.

Caster

Oval track and road race teams often utilize a caster/camber gauge to determine proper caster and camber. The unit is attached directly to the spindle by the user with an adapter and is used in conjunction with turn plates that allow the wheels to be turned to precise angles. While these specialized tools provide exceptional accuracy, they are geared to serious oval track or road racers that are commonly subjected to on-track mishaps and the associated damage, and are not cost-effective for the performance enthusiast that requires only periodic checks.

Previously, most enthusiasts would simply take their car to an auto repair or chassis shop that had the capability to perform front end alignments until the recent availability of affordable, adjustable camber/caster gauges, such as the units offered by Specialty Products Company and Longacre Racing. These portable, do-it-yourself style tools allow checking camber and caster in the home garage, shop, or even at the track. They also eliminate the need for costly turn plates and spindle mount adapters.

The FasTrax Adjustable Camber/Caster Gauge, offered by Specialty Products Company, combines a camber/caster gauge and wheel mount to offer quick, accurate alignment checks. The tool, which is available to fit 13″-18″ (SPP91000) or 17″-22″ (SPP91010) wheels, features three guide studs that grasp the inner or outer lip of the wheel to allow hands-free camber/caster readings. The gauge vial provides camber readings on the left side, and caster readings on the right. The vial block additionally includes a 15° angled end to allow accurate caster readings, eliminating the need for costly turn plates. Once camber and caster has been checked and adjusted as necessary, toe may be checked using the optional toe adapter set (SPP91100) that attaches directly to the FasTrax.

The FasTrax camber/caster gauge makes it easy to measure camber and caster.

Longacre Racing’s Quick Set Adapter with camber/caster gauge (LON52-78274) features a similar design and function, however, is engineered as a higher end model as the wheel adapter and camber/caster gauge are constructed from precision, CNC-machined billet aluminum. Rather than being secured to the wheel, the Quick Set Adapter butts up against it and only needs to be held when reading camber/caster angles.

Regardless of the chosen shop or method of alignment, ensure that all tire pressures are set, and if possible, add weight to the driver’s seat to simulate driver weight. The Allstar Scale Buddy (ALL13115), a water filled bladder that weighs up to 100 lbs., is designed for this exact purpose. The bladder may be filled and emptied in the car using a standard garden hose.

Once camber and caster has been checked, upper control arm shim usage may be adjusted if either are out of spec. Shims are available from Allstar Performance, in 1/16″ (ALL60200) or 1/8″ (ALL60201) thicknesses. It’s important to note that both camber and caster must be re-checked each time a shim change has been made.

TOE is the position of the tires pointed straight ahead and viewed from the top of the car, as either toe-in or toe-out. Toe-in is the condition when the front edge of the tires point inward toward the engine, while toe-out is when the front edges of the tires are pointed outward. Toe, which is adjustable at the tie rod or rack ends, may be checked using toe plates, a toe bar, or a tire scribe.

Toe-In / Toe-Out adjustment is also important for maximizing speed, handling, and tire life.

Toe plates, used in pairs, are available from Allstar Performance (ALL10119). Prior to using toe plates, air up the front tires, ensuring that there are no bulges at the bottom of that would compromise accuracy. The toe plates are simply placed against the outside edge of the front tires, allowing measurements to be taken from the front and rear of the tires. Each toe plate includes notches to aid measuring. If the rear measurement is 1/8″ less than the front, for example, that would signify that the car has 1/8″ toe-out.

Yet another method of checking toe is using a Toe Bar, available from Longacre Racing (LON52-79622), which takes measurements from the outside of the tires. Proceed by sliding the toe bar under the car and adjust the rod so that it has even pressure on the front side of sidewall. Repeat at the rear sidewall with the difference being the amount of toe. An 1/8″ larger measurement at the rear, for example, would result in 1/8″ toe-out.

Probably the most accurate method of checking toe is by utilizing the tire scribe method, which removes variables including side wall run out, tire bulge, or bent wheels. Using a tire scribe, such as the billet aluminum Longacre Racing unit (LON52-79610), begin by simply spinning the tire against the scribe so that it scribes a line completely around the tire. Repeat the procedure on the opposite front tire. Continue by measuring from the front of each tire using the scribe line for reference. Finish by measuring from the rear of each front tire, again using the scribe line for reference. If, for example, the front measurement is 1/8″ greater than the rear, the result is 1/8″ toe-out. Longacre also offers a special toe gauge (LON52-79620) that allows a single person to take measurements after the tires have been scribed.

Another key factor that shouldn’t be overlooked is whether the car is subject to bump steer, a condition that can cause hazardous steering conditions due to improper steering angles, and is particularly common to vehicles with altered ride heights. It’s important that the working angle of the lower control arm and the tie rods be as parallel as possible. If not, they may be corrected by using popularly available “bump steer kits”, available from manufacturers including Allstar Performance, QA1, Steeda, and UMI Performance. The kit utilizes special outer tie rods, heim ends, and a selection of spacers of varying thickness that install between the steering arm and outer tie rod.

Circle track racers pay special attention to the condition and often use specialized bump steer gauges in an effort to achieve “zero bump”. Manufacturer’s including Longacre (LON52-79005 Standard or LON52-79015 Digital Model) and Tanner (TAN1200-BSG) offer bump steer gauges that can measure the condition up to 0.001″. Allstar Performance offers adjustable center links (ALL56330 or ALL56331) that are used in conjunction with special offset inserts (ALL99088) to allow precise bump steer correction. Following any method of bump steer correction, toe should be checked and corrected as necessary.

While often taken for granted until a steering or handling issue arises, keeping front end alignment in check will not only help provide safe, effective handling but also ensure maximum tire life

Easy Roller: Reducing Wheel Bearing Friction

Earl Peters — Thu, 03 Nov 2022 20:49:25 +0000

Tech Articles

Easy Roller: Reducing Wheel Bearing Friction

By Jim Kaekel, Jr.

Reducing friction in wheel bearings and hubs can make a noticeable improvement in performance, helping drivers stay a step ahead of the competition.

When the ultimate goal is winning, most racers realize that the quest for improved performance is an ongoing process. Innovation and constant improvement are commonplace in motorsports and knowledgeable racers understand that they need to stay informed and committed to remain competitive. While some are often looking for a “quick fix” or the “trick of the week”, seasoned enthusiasts realize that top-notch cars are, in fact, effectively prepared literally from literally front-to-rear and top-to-bottom. From the wheel bearings to the engine bearings, friction is one of the biggest enemies of achieving maximum performance.

One area that is often taken for granted are the wheel bearings. Whether they participate in oval track, road race, or drag racing, most racers utilize standard replacement wheel bearings that are simply packed with their favorite brand of grease. Any race car should roll very easily when pushed in a straight line, and regardless of the results, there is always room for improvement. Refining practices initially employed by NASCAR cup teams, DRP Performance Products developed a full line of low-drag hub components that are specifically designed to reduce friction and lower temperatures, allowing the wheels to turn more easily, and effectively enabling racers to deliver more horsepower to the track.

Low-drag wheel bearing kit from DRP

Each product has been subject to extensive research, development, and testing utilizing a special in-house hub dynamometer, according to DRP’s Lynnie Doughton. Doughton states that hub dyno testing allows monitoring energy exerted, load, speed, and temperature, all in the quest to reduce wheel bearing drag. The unit additionally allows DRP to perform “A” / “B” style comparative testing, so that bearings, seals, and greases may be evaluated under identical conditions, critical to proper product development.

The main component in DRP’s low-drag hub program is the usage of an adjustable bearing spacer, marketed as the “Hub Defender”. The patented, one-of-a-kind product installs between the inner and outer wheel bearings, and allows precise adjustment of the distance between the bearings. When properly adjusted and installed, the spacer allows the spindle nut to be tightened completely and bearing load distributed equally across both bearings, preventing any bearing pre-load and effectively reducing bearing temperatures by up to 100°F. Installation makes such a significant improvement in reducing wheel bearing drag that Doughton states that racers “will instantly feel the difference by just pushing the car in the shop”.

Installation is relatively straightforward: The hub is initially installed with the bearings and spacer in place, yet without grease. After the spindle nut is completely tightened, bearing end play is checked, the spacer is removed, and its height adjusted as required until the specified end play is achieved. Spacer height may be measured simply with use of a micrometer or dial caliper. Once the final adjustments have been made, the spacer set screw may be sealed with Loctite to prevent any unwanted changes.

During the set-up process, it’s important to keep the hub, bearings, and spacers together as sets, and if replacement of any component is performed, the spacer will require re-adjustment due to minute differences in component sizing. Bearing spacers are offered by DRP for a variety of popular applications, and are sold complete with detailed set-up instructions.

It is possible to achieve additional reduction in wheel bearing friction by utilizing special, low-drag bearings. Doughton states that DRP’s low drag bearings are subjected to a proprietary, five-step process that combines the use of special chemicals and a vibratory mill that reduces the existing peaks and smooths the surface, ultimately reducing bearing drag and hub temperatures.

Hub drag may be further reduced by employing DRP’s Ultra Low Drag (ULD) or Air Gap (AG) grease seals, according to Doughton. ULD seals combine a lightweight aluminum housing with a full PTFE sealing element, while AG seals deliver “air curtain” protection, keeping dirt and contaminants out, while eliminating any seal drag.

Wheel bearing performance may be further enhanced with the use of DRP’s Ultra Low Drag Wheel Bearing Grease. Manufactured by Kluber Lubrication, Doughton stated that it performed up to 60% better than traditional wheel bearing greases during hub dyno testing. DRP recommends that when packing bearings, it is only necessary to fill every other roller bearing cavity, resulting in a 50% total bearing pack. Bearings that are over-packed will cause increased drag and higher bearing operating temperatures.

For ease of part selection and installation, DRP offers all-in-one, low-drag hub kits for a wide variety of applications that include all of the necessary components for a single hub: an adjustable hub spacer, low-drag inner and outer bearings, and a low-drag hub seal.

Utilizing DRP’s low-drag wheel bearing technology is just one more step racers can take in keeping up, and maybe even get a step ahead of the competition.

Gen V LT Engine: Technology Abounds

Earl Peters — Wed, 22 Dec 2021 16:36:35 +0000

Tech Articles

Gen V LT Engine: Technology Abounds

By Jim Kaekel, Jr.

The GM Gen V LT engine family offers some great technological improvements over prior engine families, but will it replace the popular LS for engine swaps?

While the release of the 2014 C7 Corvette marked the debut of the Gen. V LT engine, it didn’t truly become GM’s go-to powerplant until the last Gen. IV LS rolled off the assembly line in 2020. All indications are, however, is that the LT is yet another example of GM’s on-going effort to improve fuel mileage and performance through increased engine efficiency.

Similar to the previous generation LS engine family, the Gen V LT remains a deep skirt, cam-in-block pushrod engine with 4.400″ bore centers and six-bolt main caps, while still utilizing AFM (Active Fuel Management) and VVT (Variable Valve Timing). Offered in 4.3L (V-6), 5.3L, 6.2L, and 6.6L displacements, all LT blocks are manufactured from premium 319-T7 aluminum with the exception of the newest addition, the 6.6L L8T, which is constructed from gray iron and common to all 2020-up Chevy/GMC 2500HD and larger trucks. Standard 5.3L passenger car and light pickup crankshafts are manufactured from nodular iron, while the 4.3L, 6.2L, and 6.6L engines utilize forged steel crankshafts. The LT also retains the same 2.560” main and 2.100″ rod journal sizing, center main bearing thrust location, 9.240″ deck height, .842″ dia. hydraulic roller lifters, 3.622″ stroke, and 6.098″ long, forged powdered metal connecting rods.

Although the two engines share quite a bit of component sizing, it’s important to note that there are virtually no components that are interchangeable between the LS and LT. While there are some similarities, the LT offers several significant technological improvements including reduced, 12° valve angle cylinder heads, piston cooling jets, a variable displacement oil pump, a refined cooling system, and most notably, GDI (Gasoline Direct Injection).

While some may assume that GDI is relatively new, it was first introduced in low-compression truck engines back in the 1920’s. However, it wasn’t until 1996 that Mitsubishi became the first manufacturer to utilize it in mass production automobiles. Common to roughly 50% of all vehicles manufactured today, it uses a cam-driven, high-pressure mechanical fuel pump that injects fuel directly into the combustion chamber at over 2,100 PSI for improved combustion efficiency. Special reservoirs, located on the piston crowns and directly across from the injectors, aid the process.

The Gen V LT is topped with a high-flow composite intake manifold, and 356-T6 aluminum cylinder heads that include large rectangular ports and an improved 12° valve angle. Intake and exhaust valve orientation is additionally reversed to help improve air flow. The heads are fitted with higher 1.8:1 ratio rocker arms to provide increased valve lift along with stiffer valve springs and thicker wall pushrods to endure the additional valve train load.

Available as crate engine from GM Performance, the Gen V 6.0L cranks out 650hp in factory dress.

While relatively new to modern gasoline engines, piston cooling jets have proven effective in aircraft and diesel engines dating back to the 1940’s. They mount at the bottom of each cylinder adjacent to the main bearing bulkheads, and spray pressurized oil on the underside of the pistons to effectively reduce piston temperatures, allowing the engine to utilize compression ratios of up to 11.5:1 without the risk of detonation, while also eliminating piston skirt scuffing. Piston cooling jets are also becoming increasingly popular in applications that are plagued by soaring piston temperatures such as those that are turbocharged, supercharged, or nitrous-assisted.

Another key addition to the Gen V LT is the use of a variable displacement oil pump. Both GM and Volkswagen AG (VW/Porsche/Audi Group) have used them in varying production engines for over 10 years with much success as they have been proven to add 3-6% to overall fuel economy. Traditional, fixed-displacement cam- or crank-driven oil pumps provide the same output, regardless of oil temperature, viscosity, or engine demands, and therefore, are not as efficient. The LT employs a vane-style pump with Dual-Pressure control that is monitored by the vehicle’s PCM. The PCM, in coordination with AFM (Active Fuel Management), relies upon gathered data including engine load, engine speed, IAT (Intake Air Temperature), and ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature), and uses an electronic oil pressure-controlled actuator incorporated into the pump to adjust output as required.

With all of these attractive high-tech features, it’s no wonder that the LT’s popularity is soaring among performance enthusiasts, and as a result, the high-performance aftermarket is responding with a wide variety of products to swap or modify the engine. The 6.6L L8T, in particular, will certainly become a favorite among racers who desire an engine that features high-flowing aluminum cylinder heads combined with maximum cubic inches and the durability associated with an iron block.

Through its family of brands, Holley has already introduced a wide variety of engine and transmission mount kits, oil pans, exhaust headers, EFI fuel tanks, and accessory drive systems to ease the swapping the of the LT into early model vehicles including the GM ’67-69 “F” body, ’68-74 “X” body, ’63-87 Chevy/GMC truck, and ’87-06 Jeep Wrangler YJ/TJ. Kits for other popular applications, such as the ’64-72 GM “A” and ’78-88 “G” bodies, are sure to follow.

Sure to gather interest from LT engine swappers are Holley’s Terminator X and Terminator X Max standalone engine management systems, designed exclusively for enthusiasts that are swapping an LT1 (6.2L), L83 (5.3L), or L86 (6.2L) engine into an early model vehicle. Each plug and play system includes an engine harness that plugs directly into the OEM LT DI injector sub harness, and a 3.5″ handheld controller pre-programmed with a step-by-step calibration wizard to get the engine up and running. The Terminator X Max includes additions for drive-by-wire throttle control, and GM 4L60 and 4L80 transmission control.

There are also a variety of high-performance engine upgrades that have become available and are ideal for transplanted LT’s, or late model LT-powered Corvettes or Camaros. MSD recently released the Atomic Air Force (MSD2700, MSD27003, & MSD27004), a two-piece polymer intake manifold that directly replaces the stock intake. Developed using advanced Computational Fluid Dynamics (CFD) technology, the manifold includes a larger, 103mm throttle bore and adds up to 20 horsepower over the stock LT1 intake, according to the experts at MSD. Moroso offers a pair of fabricated aluminum oil pans (MOR21154 and MOR20155) for the LT as well, both with trap door baffling and removable windage trays for improved oil control. While the LT boasts more technological advancements than the previous generation LS, the jury remains out whether it can eventually overtake the LS’s current popularity with performance enthusiasts, but it certainly seems to be off to a promising start.

LS Swaps for Everyone!

Earl Peters — Wed, 22 Dec 2021 15:21:05 +0000

Tech Articles

LS Swaps for Everyone!

By Jim Kaekel, Jr.

LS swaps continue to be a popular and practical solution for adding power and performance to a wide range of cars and trucks of all eras.

While the last LS engine rolled off the assembly line in 2020, ultimately replaced by the Gen. V LT engine, the LS engine’s performance and durability have driven its lasting popularity. The fact that the vast majority of engine components are easily interchangeable due to the common bolt patterns on the cylinder heads, intake manifold, timing cover, oil pan, and front engine accessories makes the idea of LS swaps even more appealing. The sheer number of available of bolt-on parts and accessories makes the potential for tuning and customization virtually limitless. The only concern when swapping engine components relates to cylinder heads because, although the bolt pattern is common, later model large valve cylinder heads shouldn’t be installed on engines that include a cylinder bore smaller than 4.000″ due to valve-to-cylinder bore interference issues.

Shortly after it was introduced, the LS engine became an extremely popular candidate for engine swaps, often finding a new home in the engine bay of early GM (and sometimes non-GM!) street-driven muscle cars, as well as drag, circle track, or road racers, and more. The high-performance aftermarket has responded to the demand for GM LS-related components with the release of engine mount/swap kits to fit a number of vehicles from GM, Ford, Mopar, and even Jeep, along with a wide variety of high-performance cylinder heads, intake manifolds, engine blocks, oil pans, timing covers, and internal engine components. The LS engine has even found its way into more than a few more customized projects, ranging from LS-powered Supras, Miatas, and Fieros to Jaguars, Porsches, and BMWs – and even a retired US Postal Service mail delivery truck!

One of the more unique LS swaps, this retired mail truck cranks out 640 hp at the rear wheels! Courtesy of LS Postal.

Holley offers specialized motor mounts and oil pans for enthusiasts looking to install an LS into an early GM muscle car such as an ’67-69 “F” body or ’68-72 “A” body. They also have a wide variety of intake manifolds available, including cast or fully fabricated versions designed for use with cathedral or rectangular port cylinder heads, and 92 mm or 102 mm throttle bodies.

Adding an LS engine to this ’72 Chevy Nova made all the difference for performance. According to owner Dan Ballard, “The LS-based engines make power and torque so much easier than the classic small blocks and big blocks.”

Dart is among the leaders in developing high performance cylinder heads and engine blocks for the LS. Their direct bolt-on Pro 1 cylinder heads offer increased air flow, while maintaining the OEM valve angle, valve locations, and accessory mounting holes. Pro 1 cylinder heads are offered with 205cc, 225cc, or 250cc cathedral-style, or 280cc LS3-style rectangular intake ports. The as-cast 205cc and 225cc heads are well suited to street/strip applications, while the larger CNC-machined 250cc and as-cast 280cc heads are engineered for 7,000+ RPM racing applications with a minimum 4.000″ bore.

As a GM LS specialist, Frankenstein Engine Dynamics offers a variety of replacement high-performance cylinder heads as well. Their F-Series cylinder heads are offered with OEM 15° or altered 10° valve angle designs with 265cc (LS1/LS2/LS6) cathedral, 285cc (LS3) rectangle, and 285cc or 287cc square (LS7) intake ports. All F-series heads are designed for applications with a minimum 4.030″ bore. Other popular replacement high-performance heads currently available for the LS are Edelbrock’s Victor Jr., Trick Flow’s GenX, and the Mongoose from Air Flow Research.

Following up on the demand by serious performance enthusiasts for LS blocks capable of big cubic inches and the ability to withstand significant amounts of boost, Dart developed the LS Next and the SHP LS Next. Offered in aluminum or cast iron construction, the blocks are significantly stronger and more versatile than OEM castings, and retain compatibility with all factory components. The cast iron versions are ideal for applications subject to the extreme mounts of boost common to turbocharging or supercharging. Chevrolet additionally offers the LSX Bowtie, cast iron blocks that are ideal for racing applications where increased displacement and improved block strength are desired.

What’s Next?

While the 2014 C7 Corvette marked the debut of the Gen. V LT, it shares little in common with the Gen. III/IV LS, and once again it appears that GM has tried to reinvent the “mouse trap”. The LT features all-new cylinder heads with an improved 12° valve angle, refined cooling system, relocated intake and exhaust valves, and a camshaft that includes a provision to drive the high-pressure fuel pump required by direct fuel injection. The performance aftermarket has already responded with products to modify and swap LT engines as their popularity accelerates.

However, LS swaps with the variety of options in the LS engine family promise to have a long and exciting future as the engine of choice for street and track applications, from performance street cars to pro-touring to dedicated race machines.

Outfitting a Race Trailer – Making It All Fit

Earl Peters — Wed, 03 Nov 2021 14:41:47 +0000

Tech Articles

Outfitting a Race Trailer – Making It All Fit

By Jim Kaekel, Jr.

Outfitting a race trailer, and making everything fit in safely and securely, is one of the biggest challenges a racer can have off the track. It can also make the difference between racking up a win or sitting out a race.

Knowledgeable racers realize the importance of outfitting a race trailer with the necessary tools, support equipment, and replacement parts, and keeping it all organized can often make the difference between winning and losing. It’s not uncommon to see racers and their crew frantically searching their trailer for a desperately needed special tool or replacement part in the middle of an event. Regardless of the size of the unit, whether large or small, every racer has gone through the chore of outfitting it, jokingly referred to as putting 10 lbs. of “sand” in a 5 lb. bag.

Using available cabinet, floor and wall space as effectively as possible is key. The task may be greatly simplified if you have good organizational skills and are aware of the many trailer related products that are available from suppliers including Allstar Performance, Clear One Racing, Hepfner Racing Products, and Pit Pal Products. Many of these products are purpose built, designed to secure tools, lubricants, and other items so they may be stored safely and conveniently, while keeping gross trailer weight to a minimum and maximizing available floor space.

One important fact to keep in mind at this point is to keep gross trailer weight within the limits of the tow vehicle, trailer, trailer hitch, and receiver. The unit should be weighed fully loaded with race car, tools, and all support equipment. It’s equally important to know that after all the cargo is loaded, the tow vehicle should be able to safely pull it. While a set of sturdy wood storage cabinets may be purchased from the local home improvement store for a bargain price, the added weight may result in compromised pulling power, fuel economy, and most importantly, braking ability.

A priority when outfitting a race trailer, tool boxes should be properly secured to the floor or countertop. They should be bolted down if their installation is intended to be permanent. Smaller tool boxes that may need to be moved on occasion should be secured, with one approach being the use of angled aluminum, available from Allstar Performance. Regardless of size or weight, tool boxes should be adequately secured to prevent them from becoming large projectiles during hard braking or when avoiding unforeseen road hazards. A Michigan-based drag racer recently suffered a substantial amount of damage to the front end of his race car when a tool box became loose and tipped over onto his car.

A wide variety of lightweight cabinets and racks are offered to help keep lubricants, aerosols, and other items handy. Allstar, Clear One, Hepfner, and Pit Pal each offer a variety of storage units. One of the most popular is Pit Pal’s 25th Anniversary Edition Trailer Door Cabinet (PIT320A) that can secure a wide variety of lubricants, aerosols, and other accessories. The lightweight fabricated aluminum cabinet can be mounted easily to a trailer wall or door, and includes two paper towel holders. Clear One offers similar Door/Wall Cabinets (CLRTC138 or CLRTC156), manufactured from lightweight, high-strength plastic materials.

While most racers concentrate on outfitting their trailers with all of the necessary tools and equipment that they typically use, some may go to the extent of installing small microwaves, refrigerators, etc. in their trailer to provide some of the “comforts of home”. Angled aluminum may also be used for securing these types of items to floors or counter tops. Always ensure that each is secured properly as the roadways traveled are populated with potholes and obstacles that can make for a rough ride.

Use of specialized wall racks help keep trailers organized while securing objects like microwaves and refrigerators with angle iron helps prevent accidents during sudden maneuvers or braking.

A variety of specialized floor mounts are readily available to secure fuel jugs, floor jacks, and other items. Pit Pal’s 2-Jug Fuel Rack (PIT181), for example, is popular with racers in securing 5-gallon fuel jugs. There are also a variety of specialized wall mount brackets and hangers offered that are designed to conveniently store ratchet tie downs, electrical cords, air hose, etc. directly to a trailer wall. Pit Pal’s Tie Down Hangers (PIT217 or PIT218) and Universal Hanger (PIT170) are among their most popular.

Store utility jugs safely and securely.

Most entry-level enclosed trailers feature marine-grade plywood floors, which can become hazardous if they become wet. Aluminum diamond plate, offered by Allstar Performance in 4’ x 8’ sheets (ALL22240), may be used to upgrade the floor to a durable, non-slip surface, or used to create runners. It may also be used to effectively create a platform and add storage space to the trailer tongue for a spare trailer tire or generator.

One important item that shouldn’t be overlooked when outfitting a race trailer is keeping a fire extinguisher handy. Allstar Performance offers 2.5-lb. (ALL10500) and 5-lb. (ALL10502) units, each complete with wall mount brackets.

A trailer that has been effectively organized with the necessary support equipment is invaluable, particularly when the need arises for a specific replacement part that means the difference between making a quick repair between races and possibly winning the event, or becoming a non-qualifier due to breakage.

Brake Fluid – Reaching the Boiling Point

Earl Peters — Fri, 29 Oct 2021 20:41:50 +0000

Tech Articles

Brake Fluid – Reaching the Boiling Point

By Jim Kaekel, Jr.

All brake fluids are NOT the same, especially when it comes to performance applications. Selecting the proper brake fluid can mean the difference between victory and a DNF – or worse.

Often taken for granted, brake fluid is a critical ingredient in the preparation of any high-performance vehicle, particularly if it’s expected to endure the rigors of circle track racing. Racers may install specialized braking systems designed to handle the stresses associated with competition but may not scrutinize their choice of brake fluid properly, yet may wonder why their costly new brake system didn’t perform as expected.

First and foremost, only glycol-based racing brake fluids should be used due to their higher temperature rating. Brakes get extremely hot under racing conditions, causing anything but the best fluid to boil and, in turn, lead to a “spongy” pedal, or even a complete loss of braking!

When selecting the appropriate fluid, take into consideration both the wet and dry boiling points specified by the United States Department of Transportation (DOT), listed in the chart below. When subjected to the high braking demands common to racing, a fluid that exceeds DOT 3 or DOT 4 standards is highly recommended.

The dry boiling point of brake fluid is measured when the fluid is completely free of any moisture contamination. The wet boiling point refers to fluid that has absorbed moisture, which can significantly reduce the minimum boiling point of the fluid. The DOT 4 requirement for dry boiling point is 446°F, for example, while the wet boiling point is 311°F.

There are many brands of brake fluid currently offered that exceed DOT 3 or 4 specifications, including those from Allstar Performance, Motul and Wilwood. Wilwood’s EXP 600 Plus, for example, features a dry boiling point of 626° F, well above the DOT 4 requirement of 446° F. In addition, Wilwood’s fluid utilizes a low-viscosity formula which eases the process of brake bleeding, and also reduces foaming under the heavy “pedal pumping” conditions that are common to circle track racing.

Several manufactures offer high-performance brake fluids that meet DOT 3, DOT 4, DOT 5, or DOT 5.1 specs.

While silicone-based fluids are DOT 5 rated, they have both distinct advantages and disadvantages. DOT 5 fluid has a very high boiling point, and it will not absorb moisture from the atmosphere like glycol-based fluid. However, silicone brake fluid should never be used in a race car because its higher viscosity can cause the calipers to “drag”. Silicone fluids expand in high temperature situations, creating more compressibility and causing a very “spongy” brake pedal. Some manufacturers have also found in testing that silicone fluids contain properties which can cause the seals to swell. It is additionally not compatible with other brake fluids and should never be mixed with DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluids. DOT 5 brake fluid is, however, popularly used in classic cars that often remain in storage for long periods and require a fluid that doesn’t absorb water.

DOT 5 fluid should NOT be confused with DOT 5.1, which is intended for use in high-performance and heavy-duty applications, and is compatible with DOT 3 and DOT 4 brake fluids. While not a racing fluid, Motul’s DOT 5.1 fluid (MTL100951), is 100% synthetic polyglycol-based and is engineered specifically for use with anti-locking brake systems.

Because glycol-based brake fluids absorb moisture quickly, it is imperative that the fluid in the system always be kept fresh to avoid problems. Also, the master cylinder reservoir cover should be kept in place at all times, except when servicing. Fluid containers should be kept tightly sealed when not in use and never re-use any fluid after it has been bled from the system.

It’s a good idea to periodically flush the system just to keep the brake fluid optimally fresh. Anytime you experience severe brake fluid temperatures, flush the system as soon as possible. It is equally important that fluid shouldn’t be stored in pressure bleeders as the contained fluid is exposed to air and moisture, allowing it to quickly deteriorate. A brake bleeding kit, such as the Power Bleeder Pro from Motive Products (MTP0250) would be helpful at this point. It includes a pressure bleeder, two bleeder bottles, hoses, a variety of master cylinder adapters, and complete instructions.

If you are suspicious of a problem possibly related to high brake fluid temperatures, you can purchase brake temperature probes for use with pyrometers from Intercomp (INT360022) and Longacre (LON52-50740). These probes are designed to measure the surface temperature of components such as calipers, rotors, and other brake system elements to indicate potential issues.

By choosing a quality brake fluid, and keeping the fluid fresh and free of moisture, you are much less likely to run into problems like boiling brake fluid. After all, if your brake fluid boils – causing your brakes to fail – and you take a nice turn into the wall, your blood may also begin to boil (as you contemplate some much costlier expenses).

Brake fluids are available from several popular manufacturers to meet DOT 3, DOT 4, DOT 5, or DOT 5.1 specs.

Camshaft Degreeing: To What Degree Do You Want to Win?

Earl Peters — Wed, 10 Mar 2021 20:45:40 +0000

Tech Articles

Camshaft Degreeing: To What Degree Do You Want to Win?

By Jim Kaekel, Jr.

Camshaft degreeing not only helps optimize an engine’s power, but also can have a positive impact on its reliability and long-term durability.

While a rebuild for a race engine can cost significantly more than one for a daily driver, those with intimate knowledge of high performance engines understand that there is quite a bit more invested, not only because of the increased cost of high-performance parts but also due to the attention to detail and additional time required throughout the entire rebuilding process.

Although it consumes a bit of time and can add a bit of expense as well, one of the most basic chores when assembling a race or high-performance engine is degreeing the camshaft. The builder that assembles any sort of high-performance engine and simply “lines up the timing gear marks” is ignoring its benefits and is literally leaving horsepower on the table. Degreeing the camshaft ensures that it is installed precisely where the camshaft manufacturer intended and helps truly opimize the engine’s valve timing events. Camshaft manufacturers, including Comp, Isky, Lunati, and Cam Motion, for example, spend a significant amount of time on research, development, and testing on an engine dyno prior to finalizing each camshaft design. They carefully scrutinize each of the given camshaft’s valve timing events and optimize them for the particular engine, application, and specific RPM range, and it is for this reason that the camshaft should be properly degreed as part of the installation process.

Most camshaft manufacturers recommend using the intake center line method. The recommended intake centerline along with all of the given camshaft’s valve timing event data and degreeing instructions may be found on the camshaft spec card, which is included with each new camshaft. Instructions are typically worded as listed here:

Degreeing Your Cam

Step One: Find Top Dead Center on the number one cylinder and set your camshaft degree wheel pointer to “0” or “TDC”.

Step Two: With the dial indicator on the #1 intake lifter, rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the lifter goes to its highest point.

Step Three: Set the dial indicator to “.000”.

Step Four: Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise until the lifter drops .050″ and record the number that the pointer is sitting on.

Step Five: Turn the crankshaft clockwise until the lifter rises back to .000″.

Step Six: Continue to turn the crankshaft clockwise until the lifter drops .050″ and record the number that the pointer is sitting on.

Step Seven: Add the two numbers you recorded prior and divide by two. This is the intake centerline.

The camshaft may be degreed with the heads on or off; however, the process is simplified with the heads off, and with the short block assembly on an engine stand. The process may be accomplished with the engine in the vehicle but it is significantly more difficult and time-consuming.

Prior to degreeing the camshaft, there are a couple of special tools that will be needed to perform the task. A camshaft degree wheel, TDC piston stop, and 1″ travel dial indicator with stand will be required. Keep in mind that while a larger diameter degree wheel is more accurate and easier to read, it can also make the procedure more difficult if the engine is installed in the vehicle. Comp Cams offers a universal camshaft degreeing kit (COM4796) that includes a 9″ degree wheel, dial indicator, special cam checking fixture, TDC stop, and (2) lightweight (valve-to-piston clearance) checking springs, all packed into a neat storage case.

This kit from Comp Cams includes a 9″ degreeing wheel, dial indicator, and other components needed for properly degreeing a cam, all in a convenient case.

Following completion of the degreeing process, if the intake centerline is found to be 1° or 2° off spec on a high-performance street application, for example, it is of no concern and won’t make any noticeable difference in performance. On the other hand, if it’s a competition race engine, or a street application that is found to be further than 1°-2° out of spec, it should be corrected.

There are several different methods that allow changing the intake centerline of a camshaft when necessary, some of which depend upon the make of the engine. The most common procedure is by utilizing an offset camshaft dowel pin bushing, available from companies including Comp Cams (COM4760). The kit includes a set of (5) bushings, one each of 2°, 4°, 6°, and 8° along with a centered, 0° bushing. The dowel pin hole in the cam gear is simply drilled to 13/32″ so that the chosen bushing may be installed into the gear, and used to retard or advance the cam timing. Keep in mind that offset bushing usage is not an “exact science” and a 2° offset bushing, for example, installed in the advance (dowel pin moved clockwise) position, does not mean that it will precisely advance the cam by 2°. The process is literally “trial and error” and the camshaft should be re-checked each time a bushing is changed.

An alternate method of altering cam timing utilizes the crankshaft gear. Most high-performance timing sets feature a crank gear that is machined with not just a single provision for the crankshaft’s keyway but three, or even nine positions. These special crank gears include machined provisions for alternate positions, each marked “advance” or “retard”. While not as easily changed or as accurate compared to utilizing offset camshaft bushings, they are a viable option. There are also offset camshaft (used in Pontiac V8 and Gen. I Chrysler Hemi) or crankshaft keyways (Chevrolet V8) available from Mr. Gasket that may be employed. Yet another method is by using a so-called “adjustable” timing set, which eliminates the need for offset bushings or keyways, such as the Cloyes Hex-A-Just. The Hex-A-Just uses a special eccentric that allows the camshaft to be either retarded or advanced slightly by simply first loosening the rocker arms to remove the load from the valvetrain, and follow by loosening the cam bolt(s) to provide the desired adjustment. Although an “adjustable” timing set is a bit more costly than a traditional set, they have proven very effective and accurate in speeding the degreeing process.

Changing the intake centerline is also employed by racers as a means to alter the horsepower and torque curves of an engine with the goal of increasing performance. It is common knowledge that if a camshaft is advanced a couple of degrees, it will result in increased bottom-end torque and throttle response, while retarding it will have the opposite effect, providing an increase in top end horsepower. Naturally, these “improvements” come at a cost under these circumstances. Typically when low-end torque increases, top-end horsepower is sacrificed, while the opposite is true when upper RPM horsepower is enhanced. Of course, the only true method of determining the results is by trial and error, a phenomenon that most performance enthusiasts are well aware of.

Increasing Engine Compression – a (Fairly) Easy Path to More Horsepower

Earl Peters — Tue, 16 Feb 2021 16:55:46 +0000

Tech Articles

Increasing Engine Compression – a (Fairly) Easy Path to More Horsepower

By Jim Kaekel, Jr.

Increasing engine compression can be an effective way to achieve more horsepower, and doesn’t have to break the bank.

Most performance enthusiasts understand that one of the most basic, yet effective means to increase horsepower in a performance engine is by raising the compression ratio. That doesn’t necessarily mean that you have to run out and buy a new set of pistons to accomplish the task. While a new set of flat-top pistons, for example, may provide added compression over existing dished units, there are other avenues that may be explored to achieve the same goal.

One of the easiest and most cost-effective methods of increasing engine compression may be done by simply replacing the existing head gaskets. Substituting steel shim gaskets, for example, in place of traditional composition-style units can raise the compression ratio slightly and reduce quench clearance by roughly .020”. Prior to swapping gaskets, deck clearance should be checked to ensure that it will remain adequate. Insufficient deck clearance can have dire consequences including damaged ring lands and broken rings. When replacing head gaskets, it’s important that all gasket surfaces are exceptionally clean during re-assembly while closely adhering to the manufacturer’s recommended torque sequencing and specifications. If MLS (Multi-Layer Steel) head gaskets are selected, it’s important to note that the block and heads must include the necessary RA (Roughness Average) finish in order to achieve the desired sealing surface.

Another common method of boosting engine compression is by milling the cylinder heads, which effectively reduces combustion chamber volume. It’s not uncommon for a cylinder head to be milled .040” or more depending upon the application. Prior to machining, it’s important to ensure that the heads in question are up to the task by consulting with a reputable engine shop, particularly if they’ve been machined previously. If the cylinder has had any significant amount milled from it, the intake side of head or intake manifold must be machined as well to a specific, calculated amount to ensure proper fit upon re-assembly. The intake side of the heads or manifold would also require machining if the block’s deck surface is machined substantially.

Reducing deck clearance may be done both to increase engine compression and to reduce quench area, a common practice on high-end racing engines where absolute maximum performance is desired. It’s not uncommon for a blueprinted race engine to feature deck clearances so tight that the pistons are almost touching the quench area during operation. Since the block must be bare prior to machining, it’s mandatory that the existing deck height is first checked on every cylinder during tear-down or by using a mocked-up rotating assembly to ensure that it’s plausible given the existing clearances.

Measuring deck clearance and determining quench is relatively simple. The cylinder heads must be removed and the deck then thoroughly cleaned of gasket residue. A 1” travel dial indicator (Allstar Performance ALL96415) and special dial indicator stand (Proform PFM66798) may be used to measure clearance. The stand, large enough to span across a cylinder bore, is used to secure the dial indicator over the cylinder. The engine is then rotated until the desired cylinder is precisely at TDC (Top Dead Center), determined through use of the dial indicator and stand. The stand and dial indicator are then placed on the deck surface, adjacent to the top side of the cylinder and set to “0”. They are then carefully moved a short distance until the indicator drops into the cylinder and comes to rest on the piston. The first measurement is then recorded.

A combination of a dial indicator and a holder to bridge the cylinder is a valuable tool for measuring deck clearance.

The stand and dial indicator are then placed on the opposite side of the cylinder, 180° from where the first measurement was attained. The dial indicator is again set to “0” on the deck prior to dragging it slowly onto the top of the piston. After both measurements have been obtained from the same cylinder, add the two together and split the difference for the result. For example, .001” + .003” = .004”, which divided by two = .002” actual deck clearance. The second measurement and calculation are done to take piston “rock” out of the equation. Finish by repeating the process on each cylinder.

Since the vast majority of engines have what is referred to as negative deck clearance where the top of the piston is below the deck at TDC, the indicator will drop slightly during deck clearance measurement. An engine with positive deck clearance features a piston that slightly protrudes from the cylinder at TDC, causing the dial indicator to rise above the deck to the piston when measured.

After all measurements have been taken, quench or piston-to-head clearance may be determined by simply adding head gasket thickness to deck clearance (example: .002” deck clearance + .038” head gasket thickness = .040” quench clearance). While many racing engines with steel rods are run with as little as .035”-.040” of quench, keep in mind that if the engine in question is a high-end powerhouse fit with aluminum rods, it will require significantly more clearance due to the expansion characteristics of aluminum.

In the event that a significant amount of material is removed from the block or heads to meet the desired results, piston-to-valve clearance, rocker arm geometry and hydraulic lifter preload, if applicable, should be carefully checked and corrected as necessary during engine re-assembly. It’s also recommended to consult with a trusted machine shop professional before moving forward with any project that involves extensive engine modifications.

While upping the engine compression ratio traditionally offers more torque and horsepower, it’s important to note that cylinder pressures also typically rise as a result, increasing the chance of detonation and potential need to switch to a higher octane fuel.

Ring and Pinion Gears – Choose the Winning Ratio

Earl Peters — Mon, 15 Feb 2021 20:54:50 +0000

Tech Articles

Ring and Pinion Gears – Choose the Winning Ratio

By Jim Kaekel, Jr.

Many factors govern the proper selection of a ring and pinion, whether it’s for a street machine, or a race car involved in the ultra-competitive world of drag or circle track racing.

Ring and pinion type must first be considered, particularly by drag racers. Most drag race cars – and all street and circle track cars – should use what is referred to as a “street” or standard type gear set. These gear sets, made of 8620 steel, have excellent wear characteristics and are designed for a long, trouble-free life.

“Pro” or competition gear sets are engineered specifically for drag race cars that transmit tremendous amounts of horsepower and torque from the engine to the drive wheels. “Pro” gear sets are made of a much “softer” 9310 high-impact steel which is not nearly as brittle as conventional street gears and therefore, not as prone to breaking off teeth (see photo).

A “Pro” series gear set is generally recommended on any car that produces in excess of 800 horsepower, according to drive train manufacturer Mark Williams Enterprises. While on the topic of race car drivelines, weight is another important factor. Particularly heavy race cars are extremely hard on the driveline components including torque converters, transmissions, driveshafts, and differentials. Combine high power and a heavy weight – such as the popular NMCA “Shootout” type cars – and it’s the ultimate test of a ring and pinion.

These 3,000+ pound, mega-horsepower cars should ideally use the softer pro gear sets. Of course, these sets are NOT intended for everyday street use as they do not have the extended life characteristics common to harder gear sets. According to the folks at MWE, a pro gear set’s life span can be extended somewhat by occasionally checking and readjusting the back lash. Pro gears may be the “way to go” if street gears are currently suffering recurring failures.

SELECTING A PROPER GEAR RATIO

Proper ratio selection can make the difference between being a top runner and an “also-ran”. An engine in a car that is under-geared (too low a ratio, numerically) can’t make the horsepower necessary to be competitive because it can’t rev high enough.

An under-geared circle track car, for example, will be particularly weak coming out of the corner, and an under-geared drag car will suffer from poor 60 ft. times. A car that is over-geared (too high a ratio, numerically) will run “out-of-breath” on the straightaways or past the 1000 ft. mark of the drag strip, because the engine revs far past its horsepower peak. (NOTE: To avoid confusion, remember that a numerically low gear – 2.75:1 – is actually a “high” gear ratio, and, conversely, a numerically high gear – 5.88:1 – is considered a “low” gear ratio). Now, with playback and memory tachometers, proper gear ratio selection is much easier because performance during a run or a lap can be closely scrutinized by race teams.

THE ROLE OF RPM RANGE IN GEAR RATIOS

When choosing a ring and pinion ratio, it’s important to know the camshaft RPM range. Ideally, a gear ratio should be selected that will let the engine rev just slightly over the specific RPM where maximum horsepower is made. For example, if a drag race engine makes its maximum horsepower at 6000 RPM, a ratio that will let it rev to about 6400 RPM in the “traps” is ideal, according to the experts at Competition Cams. The reason for this is that it’s best to keep the engine in the RPM band just below and just above its maximum horsepower point. If a gear ratio was selected that would allow the car to only rev to the specified RPM at maximum horsepower, the engine would spend far too much time in the area below the horsepower curve, and therefore, would not perform as well.

This is particularly important to drag racers whose engines spend most of their time accelerating. A drag engine revs when the car is launched and experiences a change in load until the moment the transmission is shifted into second gear where, due to the higher (numerically lower) second gear ratio, the engine must again accelerate. The same holds true for the next gear change(s).

Circle track engines don’t spend quite as much time under constant acceleration, but depending upon the track, may be off the throttle going into the corner and back on coming out of the corner. A power speed calculator such as the one sold by Moroso (#MOR89650) can be a valuable aid during the gear selection process. The Moroso calculator is a simple slide rule which can be used to display engine RPM at specific MPH after the gear ratio has been factored in.

Gear ratio selection for a performance street machine or street rod is also important. The main considerations should be driveability, performance, and fuel economy. A car will perform much better with a 3.73 ratio than it will with the stock 2.56. However, fuel mileage will suffer because the engine will be running at a higher RPM than it did with the 2.56. A 4.10 or 4.56 ratio-equipped car may drive super in town, but can be just plain miserable to drive on the highway.

Beehive Valve Springs: Old Tech Revived

Earl Peters — Mon, 15 Feb 2021 17:14:42 +0000

Tech Articles

Beehive Valve Springs: Old Tech Revived

By Jim Kaekel, Jr.

Beehive valve springs borrow proven aircraft engine technology to boost the performance of automotive engines.

Innovation is key when pursuing increased engine efficiency and added horsepower. Leading engine builders, racers, and performance enthusiasts have learned that keeping an open mind to new products or ideas and incorporating them into their program will prevent them from being literally stuck in time. New innovations are constantly happening in different industries, such as military aircraft, and some can lead to significant improvements in automotive performance technology, as well. Look no further than beehive valve springs for an example.

Nitrous oxide systems, for example, were used as performance boosters in military aircraft during World War II, long before their use in automobiles. Lightweight batteries, widely used today in modern race and performance cars, were originally developed for use in military aircraft as well. Beehive valve springs, with their growing use and popularity in the racing and performance industry, were first used in aircraft as well.

While beehive valve springs have seen use in aircraft applications going back to the early 1900’s, it wasn’t until their introduction during the late 1990’s as standard equipment in GM LS, Ford Modular, and Dodge Gen III Hemi V8 engines that many performance enthusiasts began to take notice. According to Jason Youds of PAC Racing Springs, NASCAR teams were among the first to embrace this venerable spring technology, utilizing beehive springs on restrictor plate engines.

Beehive springs continue to gain popularity in both the circle track and drag racing markets, particularly in classes that have strict rules regarding valve spring sizing or that disallow lightweight but costly titanium valve train components. As a result of their increasing popularity, aftermarket suppliers such as PAC and Comp Cams are offering beehive springs for a wide variety of applications, including early model engines that were originally equipped with conventional valve springs.

While traditional valve springs have a constant diameter, a beehive spring tapers in toward the top, making it resemble a real beehive, hence the name. Beehive springs are formed from ovate (oval) wire rather than traditional round wire. The conical shape and ovate wire yield a lighter spring that is proven to equalize stress distribution, provide a more desirable, progressive spring rate, and ultimately, improve engine performance. A beehive spring can also allow more lift without increasing spring height. Most importantly, the ovate wire resists harmonics, a characteristic that leads to harmful valve float, according to Youds.

The development of beehive valve springs has been expedited through the use of the Spintron, a device that uses cameras, sensors, and lasers to study what happens inside an engine. Valve train experts study this data and use it to either improve an existing product or create a new one.

This beehive valve spring conversion kit from GM Performance includes the springs, retainers, seats, and locks needed to convert a small block Chevy from standard to beehive springs.

The beehive valve spring has a smaller diameter top, which allows use of a smaller, specially designed retainer for further weight reduction. These lightweight retainers weigh roughly 50% less than a titanium retainer for a conventional valve spring. Engine builders know that reducing valve train weight, specifically on the valve side of the rocker arm, multiplies the lobe acceleration rate by the rocker ratio and results in increased RPM potential without loss of valve control. This is the reasoning behind the fact that titanium valve spring retainers, valve locks, and valves have become standard equipment on many high-end racing engines. Titanium valve train components have their place in motorsports, but are typically out of the sportsman racer’s or street enthusiast’s budget. While a full complement of titanium valve train components can easily run into thousands of dollars, a set of beehive springs and lightweight steel retainers can be purchased for around $200.00.

Although beehive springs have proven very reliable, they are not for everyone. They are generally not designed for use with any high-performance camshaft that requires over 200 lbs. of valve spring seat pressure, or has greater than 0.650″ valve lift. Detractors point out that in the rare occurrence that a spring breaks, no safety margin exists due to the single spring design, and the engine is exposed to catastrophic valve-to-piston contact, which could be prevented with the use of a conventional double or triple spring. It is for this reason that Youds recommends that in the event that beehive springs are used in a racing application and they experience any significant spring pressure loss due to fatigue, that they should be replaced immediately.

While beehive valve springs are certainly not a new concept, their increasing popularity in racing and performance engines ensures that we will continue to see further innovation and improvement.